To supply the fashion industry with its leather substitute material, the biotechnology business MycoWorks has started production at the first commercial-scale fine mycelium plant in the world.
The 136,000-square-foot plant will make millions of square feet of its Reishi-branded material each year using its technique, which claims to have the same strength, durability, and feel as animal leather with fewer negative environmental effects. Mycelium, a root-like structure developed by fungi to absorb nutrients, is cultivated under controlled conditions during the production process.
MycoWorks chief operating officer Doug Hardesty said, “As MycoWorks continues to lead in biomaterial innovation, we are excited to open this first-of-its-kind facility in South Carolina. Our team of skilled manufacturing executives and engineers from the consumer goods, automotive, culinary, pharmaceutical, and biotechnology industries have modified robotic machinery and systems to handle our distinctive tray-based biomaterials method, which has made this reality possible. In turn, they have made it possible to produce the first high-quality mycelium material at scale, a feat that had never been done before.
MycoWorks claims that its transition into commercial-scale manufacturing is a sign of maturity for the biomaterials sector. Partners include upscale clothing brands Hermès and General Motors.
While the demand for high-end leather has grown 251% since 2010, according to Hardest, high-end hide production has decreased by 22% over that same time due to a downturn in beef and dairy consumption.
He said that the commercial launch of Reishi manufacturing is intended to address these issues and will bring about a “revolution in the production of high-quality natural materials for the luxury industry” by building the world’s first full-scale alternative leather factory.
When fine mycelium is grown according to specifications, it may be tailored for thickness, weight, and mechanical qualities, enabling a high degree of bespoke production that was previously not achievable through conventional agriculture.
Luxury clothing and automobile companies have also hinted that the beginning of commercial production will enable them to transition collection designs from prototypes and capsules to widespread use. Fine Mycelium has previously been successfully used in a variety of product categories, from high-end purses and shoes to interiors for cars and homes.
The new plant is hailed by the leather industry as a breakthrough in supply chain management since it offers complete predictability, transparency, and provenance of premium natural materials while also lowering waste.
